Wings- Ribs

These are my wing ribs all deburred.

The two yellow spools are the sandpaper I used for deburring the holes and flange edges. I also used just a loose sheet of 220 grit pinched between my fingers for the long straight flanges. The abrasive spools were a 1/16" rope and a 1/4" flat ribbon. This worked really well. I probably used 25% of a 25 foot roll. Many of the rib flanges were fairly well deburred already, so it didn't take much more for me to be satisfied. The lightening holes needed the most effort.

I also built the rib flange forming thing-a-ma-gig sitting on the table. It forms the flanges to the perfect 90 degrees to the rib web. It works very well. However, when I tried it out, I grabbed a nose rib and looked at the flange. It measured almost perfect without me having to touch it. Then I looked at the center rib, seems perfect too. Did I spend half a day and $20 on this thing for nothing? I will finish up checking the flange angles tonight. But I will probably be too embarrassed to tell anyone how useful, or useless, this tool was. It is well worth the effort to construct for the flanges on the tail ribs, wish I had it then. But I hope I never have to  rebuild the tail feathers.

Also in the picture are the mods I plan to make to the ribs. I talked to Van's Aircraft support on Friday and they said what I had planned seemed reasonable. If you wish to follow my example, please check with Van's yourself. So here is my plan: for the nose rib, I will enlarge the internal fuel vent hole from 1/4" to 1/2". (This is not the hole the vent tube goes thru, but the one that will be at the high point when filling the tanks.) The stock hole seems really small to me, and others have complained the tanks are slow to fill. I don't plan on doing aerobatics, nor uncoordinated flight (who does?), so I am not worried if these enlarged holes cause the fuel to slosh around a little more. For the main rib, I plan to follow the supplemental instructions on the Van's Aircraft site and add a hole in the main web to the right of the first lightening hole in the picture. This will be 3/4" per the supplemental instructions. Also the RV9 plans say it is permissible to enlarge the forward tooling hole to 1/2". But the same Van's supplement says the RV7 and 8 can enlarge this to 5/8". I will follow the 9 plans and only enlarge to 1/2 ".

Lastly in the picture, behind the table, are the wings stands for the spars. I plan to build both wings at once. These stands are a God send. Thank you to the builder Billy who provided them.

So that is my plan. Onward and upward, (well not yet anyway) :-(

2018 Update: The extra hole in the  rid I added for the conduit was positioned too low and right over a rivet. this made riveting the skins tough. I think it it was up 3/8" to 1/2 " higher, riveting the skins would have been much easier.

Starting wings-spars

After having mastered the tail section, now it is time to start taking bigger bites. Goal is to have the wings done by August for a late summer trip to Vans to pick up the fuselage kit. At least this is what I am telling people. The real goal is to have the garage cleaned out enough to get the fuselage kit inside by August.

The wing spars went together fine, but there are some minor things to be aware of. I had to look at a few other builders website and a few pictures of their spars to figure out the plans.(Thank you, thank you, and thank you)

First thing is the inboard spar doubler gets several countersunk holes. 3 of these are for the gap fairing that will have another thin sheet between the countersunk hole and the rivet. Therefore these 3 have to be set 0.007" deeper to allow for the skin. The other countersunk holes just see the rivet so these are set flush. Now there are regular rivets up near the top web. These are called out as standard rivets, but they are very close to the rivets that will be used for the skin attach and am not sure if I can bet a bucking bar on these. I am wondering if these should be flush rivets instead. I followed the plans, because I don't know what I don't know, but I did put the manufactured head on the outside so I could drill it out if I have to switch rivet styles later. Here is a pick of the root doubler and the rivets.

 The tip was fairly straight forward except the plans do not call out leaving out the rivets for the aileron bracket. So only the inboard six holes got rivets right now. Seems this is the same as the root doubler, only 6 rivets installed at this stage.

After these steps were done, it doesn't seem like much was accomplished, but this was a full page, so it is a good start on the wings. Now to deburr and straighten the ribs. And get the wings build jigs bolted to the garage floor.

Tail complete, less tips

Yahooooo!
Tail is complete less tips.
The elevators were assembled onto the horizontal stabilizer with no issues. Remember the horizontal stabilizer  is the first thing to be built. It is sure obvious to me that building the tail feathers taught me a lot about building. I am glad I started with the tail as per Van's recommendations. There is definitely a learning curve to this. here is a shot of the completed tail, taken from far enough away to hide my lessons learned. No seriously, the elevator was inspected by a tech counselor, so no worries, all is good. But it is going to be a painted airplane, no polished aluminum for me.

The elevator attach was easy. Everything was square and true. I only had to screw in one heim joint 1/2 turn to make both sides even within 0.010". It is quite amazing how close everything lined up. What an amazing kit.

Now to find a place to store it. And start the wings.

Lessons Learned:
1) Use proseal on the trialing edges. I use the T88 epoxy on the elevators to try and keep the skins from separating. All this did was make a mess to clean up; the epoxy squeezed out and cured onto the outer surface of the aluminum skins, and was a bear to clean off. The proseal clean up was much easier.
2) Instead, use the wood block that was built during the practice kits to break the skin's edge to prevent the edges from separating during the trailing edge gluing/riveting.
3) For the trailing edge rivets, don't use the back rivet set for the final setting of the rivets, it is better to use the rivet set with a hole in it and a the 1/4" diameter flat rivet die used for squeezing the -3 rivets. The reason is the back rivet set is slightly concave, whereas the flush set is flat with rounded edges.
4) The use of a double offset -4 set for the tip ribs to spar is a necessity. This lesson cost me a new tip rib.
5) Without a tungsten bucking bar, the skin to elevator spar rivets would have been nearly impossible. The extra mass and small size is really needed.

Finishing Elevator

The left elevator was finished as expected with no issues, except for some reason, the elevator skin to the rear spar had a gap once everything was assembled; probably no more than 0.002", so most likely within spec without being touched. So as I riveted the spar to skin to hinge, I would use the squeezer to re dimple the whole structure, then set the rivet, then move on to the next hole. This was more annoying than anything else.

Moving on to final elevator assembly.

Elevator Trim Tab

Today was a rainy day in Los Angeles; perfect day to be building. I knew it was going to rain, because the original internet (the sky) sent two bits of data yesterday from Santa Barbara saying it would be so. Here is a picture of the data; or maybe this was the dashed line you see on the weather maps.

So the elevator trim tab went well but I did not follow the directions verbatim. They say this is the part that everyone has trouble with, and if I had followed the directions exactly as written, I would have had trouble too. But planning this out yesterday, while the internet data was being received, I decide that there was a better way.

I followed the plans as written up until the trim tab horn is dimpled. I chose to dimple and rivet the trim tab horn after the ends were bent over. But let me walk through the order I did things.

I matched drilled the holes and deburred per the plans, but did not dimple any holes yet. I bent the trailing edge to the correct angle as per the plans using a 4 foot section of  2x 4 and some el cheapo hinges from the aviation aisle of Lowe's, as per the plans.

Then I built the bending blocks for the ends as per the plans.I practiced on some scrap aluminum until I felt comfortable working on the expensive stuff. I left the blue plastic on and used double sided tape to keep the blocks from moving as I dressed the ends.  This didn't work completely as planned, as the trailing edge in the forming blocks still moved a little as I bent over the ends; but still came out acceptable. I used a piece of 1" x 2" wood to start the bend. Then I used the flush rivet set in the rivet gun and really gently smashed over the edge till 90 degrees. I had previously filed in a 1/16" radius in the bending block to form a nice radius in the finished bend. I worked the gun back and forth until the bend radius was even without smashing it completely.

The skin area for the trim tab horn was not dimpled or riveted earlier (as the plans would have had you do) because then the trim tab wouldn't sit nicely in the forming blocks. So now I went back and dimpled the trim tab holes.It is interesting to note the #40 holes in the spar and the skin seemed to already be punched to final size, but I went back and reamed them anyway to clean up the holes.

Then I riveted the trim tab horn to the skin, except for the trim tab to spar holes, per plans. There is a spare to skin hole outside of the trim tab that I didn't dimple before the trim tab horn was riveted on. So I had to dimple this after the trim tab horn was on. This presented a problem in that there was no enough room next to the horn for the dimple die to sit down properly. I ended up drilling a hole in some scrap aluminum the same thickness as the trim tam horn and dimpled these two sheets at the same time In the picture below you can see the hole and the scrap sheet. Next time, I will dimple this hole before the horn is riveted on. I also bonded the two halves of the trim tab together, using JB Weld, to keep the moisture from wicking in between and possible causing corrosion.

Next I deburred and dimpled the #30 holes in the ends. These get pop rivets later.

When riveting the spar to the lower trim tab skin, the tungsten bucking bar is essential. I don't feel this can be done without a tungsten bar because the normal bars are just too big.

Everything else that followed, was done per the plans. nothing special.

I should be seeing the replacement parts for the elevator tip rib in a few days, so I will be finishing that up.

Elevator, Left Side

The left side elevator started out much smoother than the right. I was able to get the stiffeners back riveted no sweet by using the same method as the right elevator. Here is a picture of how I did it. The plans says to use rivet tape and tape all the rivets in place. I don't like that. My general rule is to have the pieces tight together before riveting. So, I used a completely different method since I know more than the guys at the factory who have built 20 more years of airplanes than me.:-)

So my method uses a cleco in the hole adjacent to the one I am riveting. The rivet plate is taped to the bench and cardboard is used to hold the assembly up off the table. The cardboard has a cut out for the clecos that hold the stiffener to the skin. I start at the trailing edge and insert a rivet one at a time, back rivet and then advance to the next hole. Since I am not using tape against the rivet, the rivet gets marred by the vibration of the rivet gun; but I am painting, so I don't care. The clecos keeps the skin straight as I flex and contort it to get the gun on the rivets.

The spar went well but I learned from the right side and made all the bottom rivets the pull type (with the larger dash 4 hole size) I guess if I really wanted to, I could  squeeze dash 4 solid rivets in the holes I could get too, but that seems like over kill.

But again, riveting  on the tip gave me trouble. More so than the previous elevator tip. The new parts will be here this week. We don't need to discuss this further, but lets just say, the new tools (1/8" double offset rivet set) will also be here this week. And another lessons learned, make sure the bucking bar is on the rivet and not sitting on a cleco holding the skins together. Last lessons learned, take pictures of riveting setups. Part of this trouble came about because I forgot the exact setup I had used successfully on the right side for the same rivets. Moving on...

I have started to work the elevator trim tab. It is not as bad as others make it out to be... yet. But it seems many before me have had trouble bending the skin tabs down. Knowing this, I will probably make up so samples and perfect my technique before doing the flight parts. Now I am off to cut the grass, paint the house, loose weight, before I start building again.... OK maybe just cut the grass... Naw, lets get building!

Elevator, Right Side

The right elevator is coming along but I had trouble getting to the two rivets shown in the picture below that are back in the gap at the top left of the blue-covered skin. Turns out I was assembling the tip rib incorrectly; the tip skin goes underneath the main skin, I had the main skin underneath the tip skin. By doing it the right way, the main skin can be opened up, providing good access to these rivets. When I followed the directions, it was easy.

On the bottom skin, when attaching it to the spar, the instructions said I could use either all pop rivets or a mix of pop rivets and the much stronger squeezed rivets. I chose to use a mix of pop and squeezed rivets. This made it much harder. I think if I were to build another elevator, I would just use all pulled rivets for the bottom skin to spar; much easier and less grief than having a combo of the two.

For bonding the trailing edge, I used the T88 epoxy instead of the tank sealant. The T88 is mentioned on the plans as an alternate material. I hoped it will provide less pillowing and better bond on the trailing edge than what I had on the rudder. But I have a feeling the pillowing and bonding is due to the metal being riveted so close to the edge, not the bond material. OK I give, the main reason I used the epoxy is because it is a 1 to 1 mix, whereas the tank sealant is a 4.5 to 1 mix. I didn't have a good enough scale to weigh out the sealant and I didn't want to wait three days for Amazon to bring me one. Previously on the rudder, when I mixed the tank sealant, I discovered my Target scale did not read fractions of a gram, so I guessed the mix ratios and luckily got it right.

In summary the right elevator took quite a bit longer than the rudder; mostly because there are many more rivets and the lessons learned on the rudder provided a bit of education and familiarity.

Once the epoxy dried, I riveted the trailing edge per the instructions. This went much better than the rudder, but still had the same seperation of the skin very slightly from the AEX tapered strip. I eliminated puckering between the rivets by gently squeezing out the epoxy with a seaming pliers. I think the only way to keep the skin tight tot the trailing edge is to use some structural adhesive, like JB weld, or to edge break the trailing edge before dimpling. I will try the edge break method on the left training edge.Edge breaking puts a slight crease in the skin edge so it sits tight to the AEX tapered piece. This is described in the plans.

Overall I am happy with the right elevator. I think I could do a perfect job on the left now with this experience. (Right !!! wishful thinking see next post.)