Rolling, rolling, rolling, gotta keep them rolling....

 2/12/23 

As I continue to finish up the little projects….

Cabin heat is done. Had to make special mounts to keep it away from throttle.

Alternate air is done. The factory method of attaching the cable didnt work for me. So here is my alternate method. I might replace the terminal with a stainless version….after I sleep on it.

(I post the pictures and then find a mistake. Anybody else catch it?, answer in next post)

exhaust install

 Exhaust install complete. This was not hard, but took a while to figure out the support positions to clear the newer version of the nose gear, get the pipes to clear the cowl, and allow for engine “wet dog” shakes. It seemed flimsy until all the screws were tight.

I had to modify the exhaust pipe brackets because they stuck inboard too far and hit the new nose gear mount. I just found some stainless strap and made two more angle clips that brought the vertical supports outboard more.

Engine Status Update

 Just an update, Baffles are on for good, just need to air seal fabric attached. In the pictures there is some purple tape on the lright front and left rear baffle. This covers the air bypass holes that brings air to the lower fins near the intake tubes that normally is stagnant.

Working air box, nearly ready for final install. I had to use the clearance blister and also a straight arm from the throttle body. The stock bent arm from the throttle body still hit the side of the cowl. Also, the blister supplied by Vans wasn't deep enough, so I added 2 pieces of 0.062" aluminum spacer to make the blister even more intrusive into air filter.

(Yes I wrapped the alternator with a paper towel to keep all the metal shavings out)

Baffle Install

 I am doing final install on baffles.

I am already regretting painting them white……

In spite of Santa Claus

 12/21/22

In spite of Santa Claus, I was able to get the ramps glassed and the baffle bypass for the #2 and #3 cylinders in. The bypass is needed to get cooling air to the cylinder fins underneath the intake port; normal baffles have these fins in stagnant air. I am going to paint the baffles white as soon as I finish obsessing the fit to the cowling, so I pre-painted the bypass areas.

Cowl Ramps

 12/21/22

It appears my ranps were trimmed too much at factory, like by a lot. I am having to add fiberglass to give a perch for the baffle material. Ugh.

The center section needs more trimming and glass laid over to make a smooth ramp for the center baffle material.

A friend built a 7a a year ago and his ramps were much better and seemed to not require the stuff i am doing. YMMV

Gear Leg stiffeners

 11/19/2022

I followed Paul Dye’s lead and used adel clamps, one of each size and one layer of gorrilla tape instead of the rubber inserts. I wanted some adhesive that would grip the legs and not let the clamps wiggle down the tapered leg.

I bent the adel clamps so the gap was centered on the hoop, if that makes sense. I ended up putting the metal between the adel clamps to align the metal with the centroid of the legs.

For screws I used steel button head allen type 10-32s and thin (shear) self locking nuts.

The clamps worked out to be exactly the same distance apart with the total distance between top clamp and lowest about 20.25”

I am really happy with the way it turned out, but proof is in the first flight. Tell then….