Finished

 Plane is painted and I consider it done!!

90 hour update

 10/25/2023

After 90 hours, here is some notes:
1) the vacuum pad alternator was not a good primary alternator. it didn't charge after start an never really kept the battery charged on the ground. I was finding after a flight, during taxi back, the battery was discharging. Then the next morning, the battery was low when trying to crank a cold engine. as mentioned in a previous post, I switched to a small belt drive alternator. Same weight, but really good charging at low RPMs

2) The cowl inlet ramp on my right side was placed too far back. The right side of the Lycoming has the cylinders forward of the left side. The inlet ramp needs to be as far forward as possible so as much air as possible can get to the rear cylinders. I modified this after the Phase 1, but is still not great. At the 100 hour inspection (start of yearly conditional inspection) I will redo cowl inlet ramps and the two associated baffles to get even more air in back.

3) O2 was installed and works great. However, the O2 controller uses batteries to open and close the metering valves. On my first tank, the batteries died before I ran out of O2, so I found myself coming back during night cross country at 8500' without the benefit of O2. I am switching to aircraft power for the o2 metering controller. 

4) I rarely fly at full speed. Seems the plane likes to fly at peak EGT to get terrific fuel economy and reasonably good speed.

Next phase is getting me and the plane reading for IFR flying.

Plane Complete!

 6/13/2023

Well plane is complete.

First taxi tests went well.

Awaiting weather to clear for first flight.

Factory Demo flight and Purchase of the tail kit was on 6/26/2016, 7 years ago.

Engine Start

 5/19/23

First engine start today.

It was a non event.

I did the fuel flow test yesterday with 3 gals in each tank. It took a bit to get the fuel pump primed. I had to blow in the fuel filler to push some fuel to the pump, then the fuel pump worked great. ( Unlikely to self prime in flight with low fuel, guess I am never gonna run it dry)

After that I disconnected the fuel line at the distribution block and pushed all the preservation oil out of the fuel servo into a bucket.

After filling the oil cooler as recommended by Lycoming, I turned the engine over by hand, with the lower plugs removed, to push all the oil out of the cylinders. Once tied down outside, i engage the started with the fuel valve close and fuel pump off, to build oil pressure.

Then performed a normal prime and engine start. Engine started on second blade. I was shocked it fired right up.

Ran it until cylinder head temps got to 300C.

Mag check was good; idle speed and idle mixture were good too. No adjustments needed!

No leaks or other issues.

My A&P friend and I dont see a need to run it again before first flight.

To answer a question from the other thread, battery charging was, like, 9 amps at about 1100 rpm. I think I am really gonna like this B&C alternator mounted on the vac pad.

EDIT: After 40 hours of phase 1, I took off the pad mounted alternator and went with a belt drive. The vac pad alternator just doesnt do a good enough job of charging battery during taxi in and after start to be used as a primary charging method..

Ready for inspection picture:

Weight and Balance

 5/16/23

I am sooooo close to being done, I weighed the plane today. With the whole G3X suite and the new nose gear, it came in as expected.

But the important part is that everything was ON for the weight and balance.

There are still some things to clean up, like re-bonding tie bases, checking trim throws, fuel testing, etc.

Doing the CG math, if the pilot and passenger combined weights are between 100 lbs or total plane is below gross weight, and I adhere to the 100 lb baggage limit, I cant exceed CG limits. I am glad I have a lightweight Catto prop.

It seems the RV9A CG is perfectly designed; Vans did this one right.

bleeding brakes

 5/13/23

Today we bleed the brakes.

I first tried to suck all the entrapped air from the fluid using the air compressor as a poor mans vacuum pump. There wasnt much air but some bubbles appeared in the fluid and quickly moved to the top as foam and then disappeared.

I used a hand pump and slowly pumped from the bottom of each caliper. It worked out well. Brakes appear solid. I tried the parking brake and it seemed to offer some drag, But without the brakes bedded in I dont expect much holding power yet.

The clear brake reservoir made it real easy to see the level. Maybe I will put a piece of white paper behind the brake reservoir to make the level easier to see.

Wingtips

 5/07/23

Finished wing tips. I chose to use screws and put the Archer VOR antenna on a mid rib support instead on the bottom; mainly because I didnt want to be unwiring the antenna everytime the tip comes off. (Which I hope is never) I used the soft foam to keep the antenna from vibrating against the fiberglass wingtip.

With platenuts, the factory said there is no need for the aluminum strip.

Wing Tip Install

 5/3/2023

I have been putting on the wing tips. I have the VOR antenna and the FlyLED lights in the tips so I am going to put them on with 6-32 screws per the drawing in the plans.

*I lined up the tips with the ailerons, drill thru the pre punched holes in the wing into the tips with a 3/32 drill.

*After making sure everything was good, I enlarged the 3/32" holes to #26 (I think) This make the holes a little tight for the 6-32 screws, but still able to thread into the fiberglass.

*I removed the tips, installed the two ribs per plans,

Then I put a screw and 6-32 nut plate together to make a drill guide for the Nut plate rivets. Being a smaller hole, this screw and nut plate combo was screwed in to fiberglass tip holes and the nut plate mounting holes were drilled for rivets

* The rivet holes were then countersunk

* Then the 6-32 screws were threaded thru the undersized fiberglass holes and the nut plates were riveted to the fiberglass tip.

*Once all the nut plates were installed to the tip, I took a 9/ 64 bit and opened up the undersized holes in the wing skins and the fiberglass to easily accept the 6-32 screws

* for all these steps , I used hardware store common allen 6-32 screws.

This is where I am at today

* After a trial fit on the wings to make sure the holes are all in the right spot, I will go back and counter sink the 6-32 holes and dimple the wing skins.

In general, when installing nut plates, once they are riveted in, I will go back and open up the screw holes with a larger bit so that the nut plate sets the position of the screw, and not the hole in the material. (This only works for non-floating nut plates)

VOR Antenna Install

 4/29/23

The VOR/ Localizer antenna is installed. It works remarkably well. In my hangar, with the door open and facing away from the runway, I still get good localizer signal strength. Go figure.

I will probably glue some soft shipping foam padding on the ends to keep it from rattling in the wing tip.

Note: I did this VOR antenna install to check out the nav radio prior to finishing the tip. I may incorporate the antenna into the lower section of the tip using the nut plates as the ground.

Update: I did not incorporate the VOR antenna into the bottom of the tip. Ask me at Oshkosh why not.

Tidying Things Up

 4/18/23

I am putting the wingtips on. i used a piece of foam stuck in the end to temporarily give it some shape to line everything up.

I also installed the clear brake fluid reservoir from Matco. i used a street elbow in the bottom and a custom sheet metal mount to put it in the stock location. Should work out well and now there is never any guess during pre-flight.

I still need to add some extra wires for future taxi light in the cowl. And then I will seal up the firewall.

wing and flaps

 Below is the manometer setup to compare left and right wing incidence and flap setting. I think everything is within 0.2 degrees. Not bad for a airborne tractor.

I initially set the flaps angle with a digital degree meter. But I ended up measuring the space between the rear edge of the wing skin to the flap’s rivet and set both sides equal. Then I used the manometer to measure the incidence of both wings, from leading edge to rear edge of flap, and they are within 1/8” . I think that will be OK; I don't fly straight anyways.

3/19/23 Wing Install

 Built a wing cradle to help wih wing install. I was mentally ready to install today but when I brought the wing close to the fuselage, i realized the pitot and AoA lines have to move, and some wiring needed to be extended.

Got the left wing wiring done. I have the harness connectors between the wing and fuselage. I installed the left wing using the stand. It worked well, and made it a one man job.
I had redone the wires but realize they hit to control rods. The wires need to go through the original holes but with enough wire the connectors can sit between the inner rib and fuselage.
Edit: Yes I pulled both wings off and redid the wires and pitot lines at the root. Here are the final pictures. It seems there is only a 1/2 " available on the wing lightening hole for "stuff"; basically half the difference in diameter of the wing hole and the fuselage hole. If one exceeds this 1/2", then it will touch the aileron control rod.

3/22/23 UPDATE:

Wings on with temporary bolts.

 Had to pull both wings off due to wires and stuff hitting aileron control tube (see post above)
But cradle made it relatively easy to remove and reinstall wings.
Preliminary measurement shows no sweep and incidence within 0.5 degrees; Next up is drilling rear spar...

Cowl and Prop test fit

 Test fit.

Lower cowl needed the slot extended 3”. Was not a big deal.

When I cant think of anything else to do on engine, I will do wings and preliminary weighing

 3/19/2023 update:I finished tidying up the cowl.
I lengthened nose gear slot 3 " to be able to remove cowl with prop attached. It works out well.
I also make the baffle rubber that goes between the front cowl inlets to the lower baffle ramps removable. There was no way the cowl would not go off and on with this baffle piece rigidly attached.

oil door

 Oil door is done. I might add a strip of stainless steel as a strike plate; we will have to watch the wear during flight testing. I used the trimmed piece off the cowl as a reinforcement, as others have suggested. I had the hinge backwards, couldn't figure out why it wouldn't open..... :-)

2/26/23 Baffles Done

 The baffles are completed. I found the two pieces on the inner area, on the left and right side, need to really be one piece. I tried two pieces, but there is no way to get the two pieces to lay flat. In the pictures I showed my approach and I circled the baffle that I think needs to be one piece.

Also started the louvers installation. I have an older cowl so I have to take out the honeycomb and add some glass. Not a big deal normally, but with temps in the 40F's, it is a little cold for the epoxy to cure. Seems to be curing OK thou after 24 hours.  

Rolling, rolling, rolling, gotta keep them rolling....

 2/12/23 

As I continue to finish up the little projects….

Cabin heat is done. Had to make special mounts to keep it away from throttle.

Alternate air is done. The factory method of attaching the cable didnt work for me. So here is my alternate method. I might replace the terminal with a stainless version….after I sleep on it.

(I post the pictures and then find a mistake. Anybody else catch it?, answer in next post)

exhaust install

 Exhaust install complete. This was not hard, but took a while to figure out the support positions to clear the newer version of the nose gear, get the pipes to clear the cowl, and allow for engine “wet dog” shakes. It seemed flimsy until all the screws were tight.

I had to modify the exhaust pipe brackets because they stuck inboard too far and hit the new nose gear mount. I just found some stainless strap and made two more angle clips that brought the vertical supports outboard more.

Engine Status Update

 Just an update, Baffles are on for good, just need to air seal fabric attached. In the pictures there is some purple tape on the lright front and left rear baffle. This covers the air bypass holes that brings air to the lower fins near the intake tubes that normally is stagnant.

Working air box, nearly ready for final install. I had to use the clearance blister and also a straight arm from the throttle body. The stock bent arm from the throttle body still hit the side of the cowl. Also, the blister supplied by Vans wasn't deep enough, so I added 2 pieces of 0.062" aluminum spacer to make the blister even more intrusive into air filter.

(Yes I wrapped the alternator with a paper towel to keep all the metal shavings out)

Baffle Install

 I am doing final install on baffles.

I am already regretting painting them white……

In spite of Santa Claus

 12/21/22

In spite of Santa Claus, I was able to get the ramps glassed and the baffle bypass for the #2 and #3 cylinders in. The bypass is needed to get cooling air to the cylinder fins underneath the intake port; normal baffles have these fins in stagnant air. I am going to paint the baffles white as soon as I finish obsessing the fit to the cowling, so I pre-painted the bypass areas.

Cowl Ramps

 12/21/22

It appears my ranps were trimmed too much at factory, like by a lot. I am having to add fiberglass to give a perch for the baffle material. Ugh.

The center section needs more trimming and glass laid over to make a smooth ramp for the center baffle material.

A friend built a 7a a year ago and his ramps were much better and seemed to not require the stuff i am doing. YMMV

Gear Leg stiffeners

 11/19/2022

I followed Paul Dye’s lead and used adel clamps, one of each size and one layer of gorrilla tape instead of the rubber inserts. I wanted some adhesive that would grip the legs and not let the clamps wiggle down the tapered leg.

I bent the adel clamps so the gap was centered on the hoop, if that makes sense. I ended up putting the metal between the adel clamps to align the metal with the centroid of the legs.

For screws I used steel button head allen type 10-32s and thin (shear) self locking nuts.

The clamps worked out to be exactly the same distance apart with the total distance between top clamp and lowest about 20.25”

I am really happy with the way it turned out, but proof is in the first flight. Tell then….